Modern cosmetology are widely the use of various types of acids. That are frequently used in the lounges include the composition of the professional cosmetics, including creams, lotions, and tonics for home use.
The acids are natural components of skin and are involved in the processes of cellular metabolism and exchange of gases. The decrease in the concentration of autologous acids with age disrupts the normal cell activity and is one of the factors of aging. Professional treatments and home care for their loss and give support to the necessary concentration of the desired products. In this case, this is often on the use of alpha or beta hydroacids.
The group of carboxylic acids includes a wide range of not very acidic substances, the combination of content in its composition carboxyl groups. Due to the wide variety of properties and characteristics that many of them have been successfully used in aesthetic medicine and cosmetic products.
| The types of acids | Example | Properties | Application |
| Fat | |||
| Saturated | Myristic Palmitinovaja Stearic | Emulsifiers, stabilizers | On the basis of these acids creates a lot of varieties of soap. Acids and their esters are used in cosmetics as stabilizers of emulsions. |
| Unsaturated | Linoleic Linolenic Oleic | Compensate for a deficiency of epidermal lidido and strengthen the epidermal barrier. The creation of a protective film, to prevent the evaporation of the moisture of the skin. Are antioxidants. | Included in the night and day creams, cleansing milk for cleansing the skin. |
| Fruit | |||
| Alpha-hydroacids(AHA) | Glycolic Dairy Amber Lipoic Vigilantem Apple Lemon Pyruvic, etc. | Remove hyperkeratosis, create the conditions for the improvement of the skin moisture. Stimulate the production of ceramides, collagen fibres. Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory effects. | At concentrations of up to 10% are used in cosmetic products: cream, lotion, tonic , including home. In high concentrations they are applied only in the living conditions for the exfoliations' and chemical peels superficial. |
| Beta hydroacids(NPV-acid) | Salicylic | Exfoliates the stratum corneum, reduces the production of sebum, eliminates the impurities from the pores. Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory effect. | It is used for peelings: the sun as a scrub or as the basis for a challenge half-peels - retinoic or Gessner. Included in creams, lotions, and tonics for oily and problem skin. |
| Polyhydroxylated (RNA) | Gluconic acid | It has a high molecular weight, has been a gentle effect without causing irritation. Prevents aging, stimulates the production of elastin, increases skin protective properties. Blocks of up to 50 percent of UV radiation. | Included in the anti-aging program of skin care with great sensitivity. |
| Trichloroacetic acid(TCA) | Penetrates the skin deeper than the fruit acids. The principle of action - coagulation of the protein. | For medium TCA peel. | |
Fruit AHA-acids, water, and BHA is fat-soluble. This fundamental difference that determines the use of acids in cosmetics. The best known BHA acid is salicylic - penetrate the lipid barrier deep within the pores, so that it can affect the sebaceous glands and reduce their excessive activity. Its main purpose is the treatment of acne and blackheads, rejuvenate oily and problem skin. AHA more suitable for the care of the skin, in photodamage, age spots, age hyperkeratosis and dryness. Polyacids RNA are assigned with sensitive skin, stress, low immunity local.
The glycolic acid in cosmetics is the most effective and, therefore, the most researched of all AHA-acids. Important popularity that it has gained after it has demonstrated its ability to increase the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the dermis. An additional advantage of glycolic acid is a relatively cheap production of sugar cane. Dermatologists of Medicine of the University, Wakayama (Japan) have demonstrated the effectiveness of the high concentration of this substance in the treatment of acne serious. The glycolic acid in cosmetics also successfully applied to improve the moisture level in all layers of the skin.
E. I. hernández, in his book "Aesthetic peeling" refers to a number of authoritative studies in cosmetology, who spoke about the application of glycolic acid, depending on the concentration:
Secondly, on the popularity and knowledge in cosmetology is lactic acid. Also, as glycol, this substance has a good exfoliating effect and helps to eliminate the signs of Chrono - and photoaging. The effectiveness of lactic acid a little less, but the risk of irritation from its use below.
Lactic acid is considered the most physiological of the skin. Its molecules of an atom most molecules of glycolic acid, so they are slower and more evenly penetrate the epidermis and destroy the intercellular connections. Created in the lactic acid environment prevents the growth of pathogenic bacteria, increases lipid mantle and strengthens the skin immunity. These properties, together with less aggression justifying the use of lactic acid in cosmetics-for patients sensitive to problems of the skin. Its concentration in the media for the home care ranges from 3.5 to 10 percent.
Amber acid in cosmetics is called the life giving elixir for the aging process of the skin. Clears up the excess pigment, nourishes and softens the skin. Succinic acid - a powerful catalyst for the synthesis of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) plays an important role in the cellular metabolism. Because of these properties of amber acid in cosmetics is included in many anti-aging programs, home for the aging of the skin. It is the source of vitality for the hair.
Acid Lipoic in cosmetics is not a scrub. It is recognized as a powerful antioxidant, suppresses the activity of a broad spectrum of free radicals are significant by reason of the aging of the skin, appearance of wrinkles and pigmentations. High efficiency of the acid lipoic due to its ability to dissolve in water and lipid environment, which distinguishes it from many other antioxidants, especially vitamins C and E. At the same time does not prevent his action, and strengthens it.
Acid Lipoic (vitamin N) hinder the process of glycation, in which the connection of the fibers of collagen, with the molecules of glucose and decreases the activity of the elastin. She repeatedly accelerates the metabolism of glucose and slows down the deformation of the skin. With early treatment from a beautician and regular use of funds with acid lipoic is observed, the reversibility of the process of glycation and reducing the signs of aging.
Acid Lipoic in the cosmetics also applied with success in the treatment of acne scars, post-acne and rosacea consequences. It normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands, reduces the severity of skin pores and restores the cell membranes and protects the DNA from the aggressions of the external environment.
Powerful exfoliation - the main advantage of salicylic acid in cosmetics. This is the most common BHA acid, capable of dissolving the connection between the Corneal cells even in the depths of the pores, that is to say, to destroy the black dots. In parallel, that is as a derivative of aspirin reduces inflammation, reduces infectious processes and accelerates the healing. The combination of properties, antibacterial and the effect of deep cleansing to determine the application of salicylic acid in cosmetics to work with oily skin. The concentration of salicylic acid in creams, tonics for use in the home must not exceed two percent.
First acid in the salon of cosmetology are used in the form peels.
1. Exfoliation and chemical peels superficial AHA-acids
The connection of hyperkeratosis with many diseases of the skin have been proven in 80-ies of the last century, the first scientific research on the AHA. Removing old stratum corneum acids are considered to be the safer procedure. The choice of the concentration of alpha-hydroacids do not cause burns to the skin and gently destroys desmosomes - strong intercellular connections of dead skin cells.
Later it was proven AHA-acids to penetrate in the depth of the stratum corneum and stimulate processes of the skin. However, due to the dissolution of the tight couplings arise microcirculatory channel, through which the deeper layers of the skin easier to penetrate other active substances, which are applied to the final stage of the procedure.
The peeling effect of the depth of penetration of the acid depends on its concentration and pH:
Small acid concentration allowed for home use, medium and high are treated as drugs, appointed only by a doctor-cosmetologist of the appropriate directions and are used for professional treatments in a clinic or salon.
Positive changes of peel AHA acids do not happen overnight. For a noticeable effect requires 6-10 treatments every 7-14 days. However, as a result of the course, the skin gets fully updated without difficult recovery, peeling and serious post-gluma risks.
2. Peels BHA
Chemical peels with salicylic acid are widely used for the treatment of acne, scars and acne scars, leveling of the skin relief. This acid included in the compositions of the powerful anti-aging, chemical peels, in some cases, used as a conduit for retinoic. Salicylic peels - a real salvation for people with 4 and 5 phototypes of the skin. Acting as an exfoliant gentle, it does not cause post-gluma complications in people with dark skin.
3. Medial peels acids
The mechanism of action of hydroacids do not allow to penetrate into the middle layer of the epidermis even when the concentration d'. Therefore, for deeper skin renewal use other types of acids. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) coagulates the protein, causing a controlled chemical burn. In the recovery there is an asset of the regeneration and proliferation of cells in epidermis and dermis. Pure retinoic acid - a derivative of vitamin A in the peeling process interacts with the fibroblasts, increasing its activity and therefore increases the synthesis of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Low concentrations of acids are included in sets, professional aesthetic care and cosmetics for the home. To regulate the use of these tools is more soft, but stable result.
The fatty acids thanks to the nutritional properties are the most common basis for heavy creams. Amino acids are the components of proteins important for the production of active components of the array are dermal and is suitable for all skin types. Mild forms of retinoid acid-containing creams and serums for rejuvenation, treatment of acne, rosacea and dermatitis.
Hydroxy acids are useful at any age and are included in the formulation of creams, toners and serums. Salicylic acid is often used in cosmetics for teenagers, oily and problematic skin.
Regular exfoliation after 40 - a necessary condition for the age of care. A prerequisite of the use of drugs with hydroacids - protection of the solar radiation, so that many of them contain UV filters.
Funds even with a low content of acid is recommended to use under medical supervision. Get them easier from the beautician, who is an aesthetic programme of the correction. Many professionals of drugs can be used in the salon and at home, so that you can control the flow of acids into the skin easier.